Saturday, June 2, 2012

Creamy zucchini soup, with two sides


Part 1: Although the husband isn't always wild about it, I'm prone to making lots of pureed soups. He prefers soups with some texture, which I understand. But, pureed soups remain on the menu chez Hungry Dog. As long as I have a few key ingredients on hand--a vegetable (carrots, zucchini, broccoli, or asparagus will all do nicely), an onion, a Russet potato, and some broth--I can turn out a decent soup.

I am fairly sure I have described my method somewhere before, but in case I haven't, it's this: melt some butter and oil in a pot over medium-low. Add a chopped onion and some salt and cook until soft but without browning. Add a peeled, diced potato and cook for a couple of minutes. Add some minced garlic, if you like, and cook another minute. Then add your chopped vegetable of choice--in this case about four zucchini--add enough broth to cover without drowning, and cook until all the vegetables are tender. Blend, salt and pepper to taste, and, if you like (which I do), add a splash of cream or half and half. You don't need much and  it really brings the consistency from pureed vegetable (a la baby food) to something silky and more adult.

With green vegetables, one of the downsides of soup-making is losing the vibrant color, which is why I don't salt until the end. However, I also have another trick, which is to stir in a few handfuls of spinach (in this case fresh, but you could used frozen, defrosted spinach) right before you puree. It brightens up the whole pot.

This kind of soup is great on a weeknight, as I nearly always have all the ingredients in my pantry. However, what I often don't have is good, fresh bread. So when I made this soup a few weeks back, I was pleased to realize I had buttermilk that needed to be used up. Buttermilk cheddar biscuits to the rescue!


Really not bad for a last-minute dinner and it went over well with the husband, in particular the biscuits. He is a Kentucky boy, after all. Aside from fried chicken and jam cake, biscuits may be the quickest way to his heart.


Part 2: Sadly, biscuits go from being fluffy and light the first day to all but leaden the next. I'm not sure why scones seem to survive another day but biscuits don't--perhaps someone can enlighten me. I did choke one down the next morning for breakfast (what a trooper!) but when lunch rolled around and I pulled out my leftover soup, I was once again in need of something to go alongside.

As you know, I take deep satisfaction from being able to use up leftovers, particularly now that I eat lunch at home most days. I'll eat all kinds of curious combinations for my solo lunches, and this time my rummaging had particularly fine results.

I had an odd amount of salmon leftover from another dinner--not enough to be anything on its own, but too much to even give to the dog, who would not appreciate its $18-per-poundness. I also had half an avocado to use up (incidentally, I've been obsessed with avocados recently, eating several a week. More on this in another post.) Plus some radishes and a single slice of bread that I had rejected the night before but the next day I determined was good enough to eat if toasted and spread with olive tapenade, which I also found in the fridge.

I give you: salmon, avocado, and radish tartine with olive tapenade.


Beautiful, right? Not exactly dippable, but it still elevated the soup from leftover to lovely.


For any of you that actually come to my house for dinner, rest assured, I serve our guests brand new, never-before-seen food purchased just for the purpose of hosting you. No need to fret that the pasta I'm serving you is the reincarnation of last night's pot roast, although that really isn't a bad idea. But even I have limitations of thrift when it comes to entertaining.

For my own lunch and my own pleasure, though--this little reinvention was just the ticket.

Monday, May 28, 2012

Return to paradise


Last weekend, we headed down to Santa Cruz for a few days. We rented the same house we stayed in two years ago,  located in a quiet cul-de-sac half a block from the beach. For three perfect days, we forgot about work, responsibilities, and errands, and instead settled into a new routine: beach, eat, nap, read, drink wine, repeat. I challenge you to find a better way to spend a few days.

From our sandy perch, we watched the boats...


and some kids surfing.


We even saw some dolphins, though without a zoom lens you'll have to squint a little.


We went to Capitola, a few miles down the road.


We watched a guy paddle boarding, all by himself.


There were lots of pelicans.


And lots of food. We grilled in the evenings--salmon, steak, and scallops--and I made easy sides that created little cleanup--a mango and avocado salsa, grilled asparagus. On the morning we left to drive down, I baked these lemon raspberry muffins with crumble topping and we ate them all weekend.You can find the recipe here, which I doctored only a little, substituting buttermilk for milk and adding a few drops of almond extract. Next time I might reduce the baking powder and swap in a little baking soda to soften the texture, but they really were delicious.


At our old favorite, the Aloha Island Grille, we ate kalua pig...


and kalbi ribs.


If I were on death row, I think my last meal would be a Hawaiian plate lunch. If I'm going to exit this world, I may as well be full of mac salad.

What was the occasion of this little getaway? you might wonder.

Well, for one, the husband and I celebrated our wedding anniversary! 12 years together, 7 years hitched.


We also celebrated one year of having Soph, the sweetest creature I know, unless you are a bird or gopher, in which case, she's gonna getcha.


And we remembered our Frances, who was with us on our first trip to Santa Cruz, by sprinkling some of her ashes in the Pacific.


I still miss her every day but cannot believe my good fortune to have found the two best dogs on the planet. What are the odds?

To me, there is no happier vacation than one spent wearing flip flops, shaking sand from my clothes, and smelling faintly of the sea. Three days was not enough but without a doubt, we will return.

Monday, May 14, 2012

Strawberry almond crunch cake


This cake actually has another name, a given name: Almond-Rhubarb Snack Cake. That's also a good name; as I think we've discussed before, "snack cake" is a magical phrase, summoning visions of small, soft little cakes, perfect for one and suitable for consumption any time of day.

I made this cake once before, in its original incarnation, and posted about it. (Now, as I did then, I left out the nuts in the batter, as I don't like nuts in cake.)  It was quite good with rhubarb. However, this time around, I had quite a few strawberries to use up. Strawberries are the tomatoes of the berry world: one day they're perfect, the next, they're mush on your counter. So, strawberry cake.

One of the best things about this cake--in addition to its perfect crumb and perfumed, almondy scent--is the almond topping, which is why I renamed it for this post. What you do is this: you mix a little melted butter, cream (I had half and half and that worked fine), flour, and some sugar. You then pour it over the cake when it's about 10 minutes from being done, and sprinkle it with sliced almonds. Together, they form a crunchy little frosting crust. Flo Braker, you're a genius. How do people think of these things? It's hard to imagine what this topping wouldn't be good on.

Honestly, I think the cake was even better with strawberries than with rhubarb. I feel like rhubarb benefits from macerating in sugar--the way it usually does in a pie or crisp. With this cake, you're getting unmacerated bits of fruit throughout. Strawberries are better for that than rhubarb, in my opinion, which can seem a little stalky. I mean, it is a vegetable.

Ultimately, you could swap nearly any fruit in here. I do think something with a little color is best--apples might taste good but they woudn't be as pretty as ripples of blueberries or raspberries running through. No matter what you use, though, the cake is impossible to resist and, like a good snack cake, is appropriate for devouring at breakfast, in the afternoon, or for dessert.

This recipe has a number of steps and rather specific directions, but I maintain that it is an easy cake to make. None of the steps are difficult, and having made this cake twice, I can vouch for the validity of the directions. They seemed to collectively result in a perfect, light, moist, and totally addictive cake.


Strawberry Almond Crunch Cake
Adapted slightly from Flo Braker's Baking for All Occasions 

Cake

1 3/4 c. cake flour
1/2 t. baking soda
1/4 t. salt
1/8 t. baking powder
4 oz. unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 c. granulated sugar
1/2 t. almond extract
1/2 t. vanilla extract
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
3/4 c. well-shaken buttermilk
1 c. strawberries,  trimmed and either halved or quartered

Almond topping

2 T. unsalted butter, melted
1T. all-purpose flour
1 T. heavy cream (half and half worked fine)
1/2 c. granulated sugar
1/2 c. natural or blanched sliced almonds

Center a rack in the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.

Butter a 9-inch springform pan with 2 3/4 or 3-inch sides. Line the bottom with parchment paper.

To make the cake: Have all ingredients at room temperature. Sift together flour, baking soda, salt, and baking powder onto a sheet of waxed paper; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium speed until smooth and creamy, 30 to 45 seconds. Add the sugar in a steady stream, stopping the mixer occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Continue to beat on medium speed until the mixture is very light in color and texture, about 3 minutes. Add the extracts during the final moments of mixing.

With the mixer on medium speed, add the eggs, about 3 T. at at time, beating after each addition until incorporated. When the mixture is fluffy, reduce the speed to low and add the flour mixture in three additions alternately with the buttermilk in two additions, beginning and ending with the flour mixture and mixing after each addition only until incorporated. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl after each addition. Fold the strawberries in with a rubber spatula. Spoon the batter into the pan, and spread evenly with the spatula.

Bake the cake until a round wooden toothpick inserted in the center comes out free of cake, 40-45 minutes (mine was done in 40).

About 15 minutes before the cake is ready, begin making the almond topping. In a small saucepan, mix together the butter, flour, cream, and sugar and stir over low heat until just blended.

About 10 minutes before the cake is ready, remove the cake from the oven, pour the topping mixture over it, and sprinkle the almonds over the top. Return the cake to the oven and bake until the topping spreads over the cake and just begins to bubble, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool in pan for 20 minutes.

Slowly release the springform clasp and carefully remove the pan sides. Let the cake cool on its base on the rack for 10 minutes longer. Then invert a wire rack on top of the cake, invert the cake onto it, and varefully lift off the base. Slowly peel off the parchment liner, turn it over so that the sticky side faces up, and reposition it on top of the vake. Invert another rack on top, invert the cake so it is right side up, and remove the original rack. Let cool completely.

Serve at room temperature, cut into wedges. Cake keeps, covered and at cool room temperature, for 2-3 days.